— Three footing types
Strip, pad, and pier — when to use each.
Most residential and small-commercial footings fall into one of three categories. The geometry is different, but they all do the same job: spread the load from above onto soil that can carry it.
ContinuousStrip footing
A long, rectangular footing under a load-bearing wall. Most common residential type — supports perimeter walls of houses, garages, and outbuildings. Typically 16–24 inches wide (400–600 mm), 8–12 inches deep (200–300 mm), running the full length of the wall above.
IsolatedPad footing
A discrete square or rectangle under a column or post. Common in post-frame buildings, deck post bases, and pergolas. Sized to spread a concentrated point load across enough soil area to stay below the soil's bearing capacity. Reinforced with a grid of bars in both directions.
CylindricalPier / sonotube
A cylindrical footing poured in a tube form (Sonotube and similar). Used for deck posts, fence posts, mailbox bases, and any application where a discrete vertical column transfers load to soil below frost. Usually 8–16 inches diameter (200–400 mm), poured below local frost depth.
The three share the same rule: the bottom of the footing must rest on undisturbed soil, below the local frost line. Footings poured above frost depth heave in winter as the water in the soil beneath them freezes and expands — over multiple freeze-thaw cycles, that movement cracks foundation walls, leans deck posts, and tilts fences.
— Common footing mistakes
Where DIY footings go wrong.
- Pouring above the frost line. The single most consequential error in DIY foundation work. A footing above frost will heave 1–4 inches in winter, then settle unevenly in spring. Over several freeze-thaw cycles, that movement cracks walls, leans deck posts, and tilts fence posts.
- Pouring on disturbed soil. The bottom of the trench must rest on undisturbed soil (or properly compacted engineered fill). Loose backfill at the bottom will settle and the footing will crack regardless of how much concrete is in it.
- Rebar resting on the soil. Rebar needs concrete cover beneath it, not just above. Plastic chairs or concrete dobies hold bars 3 inches off the soil. Rebar in direct contact with earth rusts and breaks the bond with the surrounding concrete.
- Skipping the gravel base. A 4–6 inch compacted gravel layer under the footing provides drainage and a stable platform. Without it, even good soil settles unevenly during freeze-thaw cycles and the footing tilts.
- Tube footings without a flared base. A 12-inch sonotube has 0.78 sq ft of bearing area — that's a lot of load per square foot. A flared concrete base (or a 24-inch pad at the bottom) spreads the load over enough soil to stay below the safe bearing capacity on most residential soils.
- Forgetting wall dowels. If a block or concrete wall is going on the footing, vertical dowels must be set into the wet concrete before it cures. Drilling them in later is possible but expensive and structurally inferior.
The cost of a bad footing. Replacing a failed footing means tearing out everything above it — the wall, the slab, sometimes the structure. A 4-foot deck post on a heaved sonotube can pull joists out of hangers across the entire span. Pour it deep enough, on solid undisturbed soil, with proper rebar and dowels, the first time.
JM
Reviewed by Jordan Mireles, P.E.Licensed civil engineer · 14 years residential and light commercial concrete. Footing dimensions and rebar schedules verified against IRC 2024 R403, ACI 318-19 §13 (Foundations) and §20.5 (Cover), and ACI 332-20 residential code. Last reviewed May 2026.